Bethnal-Green based designer Erdem held his Spring/Summer 2015 show this morning at the cavernous old Selfridges hotel as part of London fashion week. Models looked like they were emerging from a magic forest as they brushed past a profusion of plants and trees. Their hair was pulled back from their faces and pleated in long braids, giving them a spare, contained look. Some were even frowning as though deep in unsettling thoughts.
The palette was subdued, with lots of dark green, ochre and brown, maybe to match the mood of the outside world. Sleeveless tweed made an appearance with a deconstructed jacket and an elegant dress. The botanical theme was repeated on dresses appliquéd with dark green flowers and leaves. Floaty silk was printed with splashes of ochre on cream. Most stunning was a jacket made with lustrous black feathers, followed by a matching dress. Both made the models look like wild birds poised to fly back into the shelter of the woods.
Erdem is a favourite with many high profile people including the Duchess of Cambridge, Marion Cotillard and Kiera Knightley. As such, the front row was full of celebrities including Daisy Lowe, Clemency Poesy, Laura Bailey, Pixie Geldof and Yasmin Le Bon.
The audience seemed to have enjoyed the show. Joel Donovan, a young interior designer who works for House of Hackney and NH Design, told us:
The show was dark, moody and tropical. The set was fantastic and it was as if we were watching the show in the middle of tropical rainforest and the models were emerging from their natural habitat. The loud bassy music also echoed the tropical mood.
Erdem Moralioglu was born of an English mother and a Turkish father and moved to London in 2000 to study at the Royal College of Art. He launched his label in 2005 and it took off, with the help of £100,000 from the Fashion Fringe prize.
In the Financial Times earlier this year, Libby Banks described the Erdem label as a ‘future classic’ to be invested in. This might provide the justification needed to buy pieces from the Spring/Summer 2015 show. The haunting collection matched Erdem’s usual sophisticated, imaginative designs. It should translate well into the street, with very wearable yet distinctive dresses and practical gladiator sandals.